Cantilevering a structure--extending it beyond the posts and beams--is an easy way to de-emphasize the footings and posts . It's generally safe to cantilever the beam a foot or two beyond the posts, and the joists a foot or two beyond the beams. "3D Deck," a design program from Books That Work, automatically does this with every design it builds. In some situations, like a steep hillside or a cramped yard where posts interfere with circulation, it may be helpful to cantilever even farther, but be sure to consult your local building department.

Built-in benches, like this one, provide extra seating for large gatherings. What's more, they are fairly easy to construct if you plan for them before you build railings.

Because it has no back, this bench is easy to build. It works equally well as a pedestal for plants or as casual seating. Since it needn't be built in, you can move it around until you find just the right spot. Build benches like these between 13 and 15 inches high for average-height adults.Construction 

Details - Railing Styles Your choice of railing style will have a major impact on the look of your deck. The four options below are all easily built with simple tools and require only a moderate amount of experience.Local codes include strict guidelines regarding the maximum spacing between balusters. Six inches is a common limit, though your local building code may allow no more than 4 inches between balusters.

This horizontal design is extremely easy to build because there are so few pieces to put together. Once you lay out the vertical spacing of the horizontal 2-by-4's, you can join them on any rail post or use full-length boards that span several posts at a time. Horizontal lines tend to stop the eye, making this a good choice if you want to hide an undesirable view. One caution: horizontal boards create a ladder-like design that small children can climb.

A California classic, this design uses 2-by-2's as balusters nailed to horizontal 2-by-4 rails. The baluster ends have been chamfered (trimmed at a 45-degree angle) to reduce their bulk for a more finished appearance.

A variation on Railing #2, this one eliminates the lower rail, saving a bit of lumber and labor. In this design, the rim joist acts as the lower rail.

Here, even the posts and upper rail have been eliminated. The balusters provide all the strength for the rail, so they must be fastened to the rim joist with at least two screws each. On top, a single 2-by-6 on edge yields a clean, modern look.

This open design is nothing more than tightly-stretched steel cable, spaced evenly from top to bottom. Turnbuckles and eyebolts hold the cable to the posts at each end. Intermediate posts must be drilled to allow the cable to pass through. This railing is a great choice when a nearly unobstructed view is important.

For a deck below two feet high, you won't need any posts. Instead, pour footings 6 inches or higher and place the beams right on top. Use string lines to get the footing heights level, then use thin pieces of treated wood or asphalt shingles to "shim" the beams precisely. It's better to pour a slightly higher footing than to install a too-short post to make up the difference. A post under about 6 inches tall is likely to split in the long run.

Wooden decks can be built as low as a few inches high. The structure can be as simple as this deck on "sleeper" joists--2-by-4's laid flat on a bed of drain rock. To build this design, just level a 3-inch-deep bed before you nail the sleepers. Because the sleepers are fully supported by gravel, there's no need for a foundation

If you need only a step or two down from your deck, don't bother cutting the type of stair stringer needed for taller stairs. Instead, simple boxes will support a step or two. You may even want to try building a concrete, brick or stone step in these cases.