Workshop Tips!

How To Build A Fence

1. Lay out exact fence line

If the fence is to be situated along your lot line, it is best to discuss the matter with your neighbour(s). If there is a disagreement on where the exact lot line is located, check the survey markers or have your lot surveyed. If you are paying for the entire fence, ensure that the fence is entirely on your property. Run twine along the outside of your proposed fence line. To guarantee a right-angled corner, measure 6' away from the corner in one direction and 8' in the other direction. The corner is square if the distance across the hypotenuse of this triangle is 10'.

2. Treating posts

The most important part of your fence is the part that cannot be seen after construction. This is the part of the post that is below ground. Therefore, pressure treated posts or posts treated with a preservative will assure a lasting firm foundation. It is best to soak untreated posts to a point at least 6" above ground level with a preservative. If you cannot soak the posts in this solution, brushing or spraying two or three liberal coats is next best. Full directions are on each can.

3. Determine post spacing

METHOD 1

Use post spacing as illustrated and shorten your spacing at corners if necessary for the best appearance. (Remember to include gate posts in your calculations.)

METHOD 2

To determine the spacing of your posts, divide each of the fence lengths into even sections. (Warning: the longer the sections, the greater the tendency for your fence to sag.) Lumber comes in standard lengths, make economical use of your lumber.

4. Setting the posts

A good rule of thumb is that approximately two thirds of the fence post is above ground and at least one third of the post is in the ground. Dig the post hole about 6" deeper that the desired depth of the post and fill in the base of the hole with gravel or small stones. This will drain any moisture away from the post and help prevent the post from rotting. If using concrete to set the posts, ensure that the bottom end of the post extends down past the concrete to keep moisture from collecting around the post. Make the bottom of the post hole wider than the top to provide a solid base and to prevent frost from heaving the post if concrete is used. Setting the post below the frost line will also help prevent frost heaving. Use a plumb line or level to ensure the post is vertical while filling in the hole. To add extra rigidity to particularly a corner post, nail cleats onto the post. Brace posts until the concrete has set. After setting the corner posts, the intermediate posts may be set.

 

Stretch twine between the main posts at the top and bottom. Using the twine in conjunction with a level will ensure a vertical post.

 

5. Attaching rails & boards

Once the posts have been set, the rails can then be nailed into place. The bottom rail should be fastened to the posts at least 6" above the ground. This serves two purposes. (1) It keeps the boards away from the ground and moisture. (2) It allows for easy grass cutting underneath the fence. Fasten lower rail in desired position, ensuring that both ends are the same height off the ground. Measure from the bottom rail to the desired height on posts and nail top rail in position. Cut posts to correct height before nailing if using the top overlap method. Ensure that the top and bottom rails are parallel. With all fences, except the Vertical Louvre, the Patio and the Glenora II, you can now nail the boards onto the rails. These three fences require the boards to be fastened to a frame which, in turn, is fastened to the rails.

6. Finishing your fence

Use 2 or 3 coats of a good quality paint or stain. Many people paint the posts, rails and boards prior to assembly to ensure that all pieces have a complete coating of paint.

Tips for good fence construction

 

  1. When nailing rails or boards horizontally, do not have all the joints on one post. Your fence will be stronger if you stagger the joints.

  2. When assembling a large number of boards with equal spacing, ensure that the first board is straight and use a spacer or cleat to ensure equal spacing of the boards.

  3. Use 3-1/2" nails for nailing 2x4's to posts, 2-1/4" nails to fasten 1" boards or pickets. Drive nails at least 1" from end of board to prevent splitting. Use galvanized nails or equivalent to prevent staining your finished fence.

  4. Cut all boards to length before nailing rails to posts. Often boards must be cut to a nominal length to ensure square corners and smooth ends. If this is the case, rails should be spaced according to board lengths.

 

 

When your fence runs up a hill, build it in a step fashion or follow the contour of the land as illustrated.

How to build a fence gate

A gate opening should be at least 36" wide with the posts on both sides of the gate firmly set in the ground. The actual gate frame should have lapped corners and a diagonal brace to ensure strength and rigidity. The vertical rails on the frame should be sawn to fit between the horizontal rails. Always make the frame 1" narrower than the distance between the inside of the two gate posts to allow the gate to swing freely. Measure this distance at the top, middle and bottom of the gate opening before constructing the frame.

 

 

These measurements will verify the squareness of your opening. Nail the first board in place flush with the edge of the vertical rail on the hinge side of the gate frame, continue across with additional boards until full width of gate is reached. Fit gate to opening and trim excess material until the gate fits the opening properly. Finally, attach hinges and latch. If a stop is required, nail a piece of fencing material on the latch post.