Band saw

Keeping Band saw Blades In Position During Changeover
To prevent the blade from slipping off the top tire while you align and tighten it, temporarily tape (or use a spring clamp) the blade to the top tire during the changeover process. CAUTION: If you use a clamp, don’t to forget to remove it before turning on your machine.

Extend the life of your Band saw tire
with this "automatic tire duster" Band saw tires last lots longer when you keep them clean. To do this, attach old, worn-out toothbrushes to the frame of your saw so they rub continuously against the tires to keep them clean. If you need to bend the handle in order to attach the brush, soften it by heating in a pot of boiling water. When the brushes wear down, just replace them with a new set of "retired" brushes.

Make-it-yourself bandsaw tire cleaner
It's a fact that Bandsaw tires will last much longer if they're kept clean. You can make a simple, self-cleaning system for your tires from a couple of old discarded toothbrushes. Just cut the handles off to about 3" long, heat them up with a candle or torch and bend them to a 90-degree angle.  Then, simply screw them to the inside of your bandsaw's "cabinet" so the bristles ride constantly against the tires' surfaces during operation..."sweeping" the dust and debris off as you work.  

Safely holding ultra-small pieces for bandsawing
Sometimes, it's necessary to cut extremely small pieces of stock that are impossible to grasp properly without getting your fingers well inside the red "safety zone"...where fingers aren't supposed to be ! This problem can often be solved by guiding your stock with the eraser ends of two pencils.

Cutting tighter curves with Band saw Blades
The sharp, square edged on the back sides of your band saw blades can restrict the tightness of the curves you cut.  You can solve this problem by laying a medium coarse sharpening stone on your band saw's table surface (behind the blade), turning on the saw and rounding-over the back edge of the blade slightly. Don't push hard on the stone while you're doing this or you'll push the blade off your saw's back-up rollers. It's best to do this job with a dry stone.

Make-it-yourself locking bolts
You can keep nuts from working loose by drilling a small hole all the way through the threads of your bolt at the location where the tightened nut will be.  Make your hole just slightly smaller than the diameter of a piece of rigid nylon cord (such as that used for a garden string trimmer). 
Push a short piece of this cord through the hole and cut it off on each side of your bolt so just a small amount protrudes beyond the threads. When you tighten the nut, it will crush the nylon cord and keep your nut from working loose.

Magnetic Band saw rip fence
If you have a band saw with a cast iron (not aluminum) table, you can
use a commercially available, magnetic kitchen knife holder as a rip fence.
These holders are usually very straight, with magnets that are more than
strong enough to hold during most operations. 


Balancing band saw wheels.
The lead wheel weights used for balancing car tires will also
work on an out-of-balance band saw wheel. They'll do less damage
to the wheel than drilling a bunch of balancing holes in it.
Plus, you can re-position them as needed. And, since they're
made of soft lead, their weight can be easily adjusted by
shaving a little off with a utility knife. Always start
with the lightest, smallest weights you can find for this job.

Holding the pieces of a compound cut together during cutting.
Compound band saw cuts (such as those used for cabriole legs) often
require that you replace the piece of scrap you just cut away from
your work piece before you can make your next cut (usually made on a
different plane). The easiest way to do this is by using double-stick
carpet tape or ordinary masking tape.

Emergency Band saw tire
It always happens at the most inopportune times. You're working away
when all of a sudden, the rubber tire on your band saw heads South.
It's Saturday evening. You're trying to finish a project. No spare
band saw tires within a million miles.

Well ... fear not. Often, car or truck inner tubes can be trimmed for
use as band saw tires. Bond them carefully to your band saw's wheel with
rubber cement. This fix should get you through your project ... but
it's not permanent! Be sure to replace your temporary tire with a
proper tire ASAP.

Smoothing-out Band saw cuts.
By removing the set on your band saw blades, they'll produce a
much smoother cut, without those tell-tale tooth marks.
Here are three ways:
* Lay the blade on a hard metal surface (anvil, etc)
and peen the teeth with a smooth-faced hammer.
* Pinch the teeth with a pair of pliers.
* Hone the edges of the teeth with a coarse stone
until the set disappears.
Remember, however, that blades which have been altered in this
fashion will not cut as tight a corner...nor will they cut as
rapidly as blades with set teeth. Therefore, push your work piece
through the blade more slowly and leave yourself a little more
radius than you would normally need.

Clamping

Improving the grip of wooden vise jaws
Grasping dowels, threaded rods, pipe and similar round objects in the jaws of a vise without slipping or damaging the object you're holding can be tough.  And, if the only vise you own is a woodworker's vise, its smooth jaws make the job even tougher.  This problem can be solved by first inserting the object to be gripped into a piece of rubber or plastic hose before grasping it in your vise. You can use garden hose, surgical hose, automotive radiator hose, etc.  Just match the hose size to the object. You'll get a great grip, won't damage the threads of your threaded rod and won't mar the jaws of your wooden vise.

Make-It-Yourself "Emergency" Spring Clamps
The next time you find yourself needing some lightweight spring clamps for holding thin workpieces together, try this trick.  Saw some 1" to 2" long rings from a piece of heavy-gauge PVC pipe.  Then, saw a kerf through the rings, allowing them to be spread apart for clamping your stock together.

Protective clamp jaws
Often, the jaws of metal clamps (such as pipe clamps) can become marred, which, in turn, will damage work piece surfaces when you apply the pressure. You can avoid this by making wooden jaw faces, with adhesive-backed magnetic tape on their back sides.  Then, when you clamp a project, simply position the magnets over the jaws of your clamps and go to work.

Make-it-yourself, non-slip bench dogs
You can make your own bench dogs from pieces 3/4" to 1" diameter wood dowel.  Just cut the dowels to the length you need and slip a 3/4" long piece of thick-wall, clear plastic hose or tubing over the ends.  The tubing will keep your dowel from dropping all the way through the dog holes in your benchtop and provide a non-slip grip on your workpiece, as well.

Rubber inner-tubes make great clamps for odd-shaped projects
Bicycle, motorcycle or automotive inner-tubes are a great source for rubber clamping strips. Just cut the tubes into 1" to 2" wide strips, wrap them around your project and tie or use miniature handscrews or clamp-style pliers to clamp off the ends until your glue dries. You can vary the amount of pressure by increasing the number of wraps around your project...or by using heavier gauge inner-tubes, such as those used with truck tires.

Giant, Make-It-Yourself "Clothespin" Clamps
Picture how a wooden clothespin is made.
Two pieces of wood with semi-circular cutouts that pivot on the "barrel" of a spring. Now, imagine how you could duplicate this design to make some handy clamps. For example, start with a piece of hardwood stock, 3/4" thick by 2" wide x 12" long. Lay your stock on the bench top and drill a 1/2" hole through the 3/4" thickness, centered, 1" in from each side and about 4" from one end.
Next, rip your 2" wide piece in half from end-to-end, cutting through the center of your 1/2" hole. This will leave a semi-circular notch in each of your two jaw pieces.
Cut a piece of 3/4" diameter dowel rod to a length of 3/4". Position your dowel rod in the semi-circular notches between the two jaw pieces to create a fulcrum point. Wrap a large rubber band around the short, clamping ends to apply pressure. Simple.  

Overhead clamp storage from PVC, copper
or cast iron pipe
A nifty rack for storing hand screws and other clamps can be made by creating an inverted "T" from ordinary plumbing pipe. Just attach its single end to the rafters in your garage or basement shop, with the double "T" end hanging down.  Slip your clamps over the "T" for quick, easy access.

Pliers or clamp?  BOTH !
The next time you need a clamp to hold small parts together, try using an ordinary pair of pliers (regular, needle-nosed or channel-lock style) with a heavy rubber band or piece of bicycle inner tube wrapped around the handles to pull the jaws together.

Conforming clamp pads
Sometimes, it's necessary to clamp odd-shaped pieces that are difficult to grasp with straight-sided clamp jaws.  In these instances, try using a piece of 1" or 2" thick Styrofoam as a "caul" between your odd-shaped project components and the jaws of your clamps.  It really works!

Extra Long Rubber Band Clamps
When you need an extra long piece of rubber for clamping a large project, try cutting a continuous spiral from a used inner tube. First, cut across the tube on both sides of the valve stem to remove it. Then, use a pair of scissors (or tin snips) to cut around the circumference of the tube in a continuous spiral. You'll be surprised how many feet of rubber you can get from a single inner tube!

Temporary Machinist's Vise Mounting
Woodworkers who only have an occasional need for a metal-working machinist's vise may not want to consume a lot of workbench real estate by mounting such a vise permanently to the bench top.
If you're one of these folks, bolt the base of your machinist's vise to a "beefy" block of hardwood that you can then clamp solidly into your woodworker's vise. For even more versatility, choose a small machinist's vise with a rotating base. Make your wood block a few inches longer than the width of your woodworking vise jaws.  This approach will allow you to mount your metal-working vise at many different angles for working in difficult-to-reach areas.

Making super-long pipe clamps
Cut wide slots in the ends of 2'-long sections of pipe of the proper diameter for your clamp ends. Insert a piece of heavy chain into the slots in these two pipe ends and pin them into position by running a bolt through the pipe and the chain links. The chain can be any length you need.
These extended pipe/chain clamps are a lot easier to handle than long, rigid pieces of heavy pipe -- and a lot more convenient to store away, too.

Protective jaws for metalworking vises
Cut strips of padded, magnetic-backed material like that used for making
self-adhering signs for the sides of trucks or cars. Just stop by any
local sign shop and ask them for a few small pieces of scrap material.

1) Inexpensive, light-duty clamps for smaller projects.
Try using spring-type clothespins, office binder clips,
medical hemostats or bobby-pins.

2) Keeping your pipe clamps from staining wood surfaces.
Slip a couple of "doughnuts" made from foam pipe insulation over
the pipes before assembling the clamps. These "doughnuts" will
hold the pipes off the surfaces of your work pieces during glue-ups.

3)Clamping large splinters in position.
First, work the glue thoroughly into the splinter's recess.
Then, place the splinter into position and cover it with a piece
of see-through plastic, Plexiglas, or clear cellophane tape.
Clamp to hold while the glue sets up. The see-through material
will help you verify that the splinter is remaining in position
and than any glue squeeze-outs are not adhering to the plastic
or tape while everything dries.

4) Emergency C-Clamp from a pipe wrench.
The next time you're just one clamp short on a particular job,
try using an ordinary pipe wrench or monkey wrench for the job.
Be sure to place protective pads between rough jaws and your
work pieces to protect them from marring.

5) Keep your clamp heads/feet from damaging your work pieces
Most metal and pipe-type clamps have rough-surfaced heads or
feet that will damage work pieces as pressure is applied. To
prevent this, attach small, wooden "cauls" (or protective blocks)
to the clamp faces with double-stick carpet tape. 1/4" hardboard
or plywood is best. With steel or iron-faced clamps, another option is to make 
your cauls a bit thicker and counter bore them to accept small,
round, ceramic magnets, glued in position. Make sure the magnets
are strong enough to hold your cauls in position during clamping
and that the surface of the magnets are flush with the surface
of the cauls.

Getting a grip on dowel rod with your bench vise.
When you need a rock-solid grip on dowels for certain operations, try
clamping a couple of ordinary clothespins over the dowel. Then, just
drop the dowel (with clothespins attached, of course) into the vise
jaws and tighten.

Fast-acting, tight-quarters C-Clamps for production applications
Sometimes (as in the case of gluing-up bent laminations or edge banding),
it's necessary to use a large quantity of C-Clamps. This creates two
problems. First, the T-Bars often run into one another during tightening.
And second, even if they don't, tightening 10 to 20 C-Clamps can be a
time-consuming proposition.
To resolve this problem, replace the sliding T-Bars with standard-sized
nuts, welded onto the ends of the clamp screws. You'll eliminate their
interference with one another...plus...you'll be able to tighten them
quickly by using a nut driver bit in your power drill.

Inexpensive, light-duty clamps for smaller projects
Try using spring-type clothespins, office binder clips,
medical hemostats or bobby-pins.

Outboard support for long work pieces.
Occasionally, it's necessary to clamp a long piece of stock in a
bench vice to work on it... where one might be projecting way out
into the air, unsupported. To provide the support you need, attach
a notched, adjustable shelf support (the kind that uses the long,
full-width shelf supports) to the front of the leg on the opposite
end of your bench. When you need extra support, insert a shelf
support in the proper set of notches and there you have it.

Cutting & Sizing

Three options for temporarily holding workpieces together during pad sawing or turning operations.
1: Use rubber cement. Apply to both pieces, let dry and press firmly together. They will separate easily when you've finished your cut. 2: Use double-sided carpet tape. A firmer grip than rubber cement and tougher to separate, as well. Lacquer thinner can help. 3: Use artist's "Scotch" Adhesive Transfer Tape. Applied with a gun-like device, it's available in art supply stores and removes easily, like rubber cement.

Simple handsaw tricks
Handsaws will cut differently, depending on the angle at which they're held while you make the cut. For fastest cutting, hold your saw perpendicular (at a 90-degree angle) to the work piece surface. Be aware that this technique will result in a fairly rough cut. For a smoother, general-purpose cut, hold your saw at a 45 to 50-degree angle. For the smoothest cut, swing your saw to a shallow 15 to 20-degree angle to the workpiece surface. This approach, will, however, require considerably more time to complete your cut.

Disguising Upright Bookcase Shelf Supports
Long expanses of books on shelves can easily get heavy enough to cause unsightly sagging over time. This problem can, of course, be avoided by positioning upright supports between the shelves. However, these supports can distract from the appearance of your shelves.  To solve this problem, buy some inexpensive used books that are the same height as the distance between your shelves. Remove the pages of the books, wrap their covers around the upright supports and glue them into position, rendering your supports "invisible".

Hack sawing aluminum
Always use a coarse-tooth hacksaw blade when cutting aluminum, as a fine-tooth blade will clog quickly.

Ripping cupped boards
When ripping cupped boards, always place your stock on the saw table with the cupped side DOWN to keep the stock from rocking from side-to-side during the cut. Also, try to keep all downward pressure on the piece of stock between the blade and the rip fence...and as close to the fence as possible to prevent binding.

Offsetting Jointer Fence Error

Even the slightest error in setting the angle of your jointer's fence will produce an edge that's not 90-degrees to your work piece surface.  As a result, when you join your boards together, you could get a slightly warped or bowed surface.  To avoid this, when jointing the edges of mating pieces, alternate between guiding the intended top and intended bottom surfaces of your boards against your jointer's fence.  By doing this, you will offset any differences and achieve a much tighter joint without warpage or bow.

"Shaving" miter cuts for accuracy
If you've used a handsaw and miter box to cut the corners of moldings
or framing materials, it's often necessary to "shave" off just a bit to
correct a fit. To keep your saw blade from deflecting away from the
cutting line during this process, place an additional piece of similar wood
(un-cut) stock behind your work piece when making your cut.  The fresh
kerf in this back-up piece will hold your cut on-line.

Make An Extra-Long, Graduated Straightedge For Use With Large Projects
Working with a "floppy" tape measure can be a bothersome proposition
when measuring large sheets of plywood or long workpieces. Instead, buy an 8' plastic or metal self-stick rule at a hardware store or from a cataloger and attach it to an 8' piece of aluminum angle stock. It's light and easy to handle and the angle on the stock gives it rigidity for improved accuracy.

Improved Crosscut Accuracy
If you move too fast when making a cut, it's not unusual for the blade to "climb" or twist slightly during your cut. Once this process begins, it's difficult to straighten-out. When this happens, try moving your workpiece through the cut more slowly. Another option is to make your cut in two passes...the first, just slightly less than a full saw kerf beyond your intended size - and the final pass to exact length. This second pass will, in most instances, true-up your cut quite nicely.

Cutting foam rubber
Try using an electric carving knife.

Make-it-yourself hand-held countersink
Sometimes, you just don't feel like dragging out your drill to knock the burrs off the edges of freshly drilled holes.or to countersink them slightly. Instead, make a practical, hand-held countersink holder by using the chuck from a discarded portable drill. Attach a file handle (or other handle) to the chuck for convenience.

Automatic dowel pin depth control
When a number of dowels must be driven to the same, exact, preset depth, cut a piece of scrap stock to a thickness that matches the length of the protruding pins. Lay the scrap stock beside the pins and drive them home with a wooden mallet. As the dowel is struck with the mallet, the depth will be controlled when the mallet head hits the scrap stock.

A Great 1" depth gauge
An ordinary automotive tire tread gauge works well for measuring the depths
of shallow holes, mortises and other cavities. Most offer a capacity of 1",
graduated by 32nds.

Cutting threads in wood
Make your own thread-cutting dies for wooden dowels from ordinary hex nuts. Chose a nut of the proper size for your dowel and cut it in half with a
hacksaw. Place half of the nut on each side of the dowel and clamp the two
halves together tightly in a vise. Then, just turn your dowel rod to cut the
threads.

Enlarging mis-cut project components
If, as an example, you cut a panel for a box lid or cabinet door too narrow,
consider ripping it in half and adding a strip of contrasting wood in the
center that's wide enough to bring your panel back to its intended size.
Those who see the project will figure that you've added this accent strip
intentionally.

Avoiding mistakes when cutting to size
Organization and neatness count! With table sawing, as an example,
keep all of your "to be cut" work pieces stacked-up in a neat pile near
one side of your saw table and your "finished" pieces near the other.
When stacking your lumber, orient all the pieces in the same direction
to avoid confusion when positioning them properly against your miter
gauge, rip fence or other work-guiding device. This way, you can pull
a piece off your "to be cut" stack... position it properly for cutting,
cut it, then place it on your "finished" stack with far less chance of
making a cut on the wrong edge.

Recycle that office paper cutter.
When your old lever-type office paper cutter will no longer cut a
perfect, clean edge on paper, chances are, it will still do a great
job on veneers, sandpaper, window screens, sheet vinyl, rubberized
counter top materials, even thin sheet aluminum.

Minimizing material waste
We all occasionally cut a piece of stock too short. To minimize the
impact of this, when cutting your pieces to size, always cut your
longer pieces first.  This way, if you cut a piece too short, you can
always re-cut it and use it for one of the shorter pieces you'll be
making later on.

Improved control when cutting thin stock
Because the new scroll saws cut so quickly, you can easily ruin a thin
workpiece (1/8" thick or less) before you know it by losing your
concentration and ZOOMING past your intended stopping point!

If you're making several copies of the same piece, just use the pad
sawing technique to cut a stack of pieces at the same time for improved
control. However, if you only need one piece, try double-stick taping or
rubber-cementing your workpiece to the top of a piece of 1/2" pine (or
other scrap).
In either case, increasing the thickness of your workpiece will make a
big difference.

Improving the "glide" of handsaws through workpieces
Rub the blade of your saw -- LIGHTLY -- with waxed-paper, paraffin or
a bar of hand soap before use.

Drilling & Fastening

Countersinking Screw Holes In Tight Quarters
Sometimes (as is the case with small cabinets and assembled drawers), it's impossible to get your electric drill into a position where you can bore a countersink into a work piece from the inside. In these cases, use a combination drill bit/countersink to first drill your pilot hole from the outside of your project.
Then, remove the bit from your drill chuck, loosen the pilot bit and turn it around, end-for-end, so the straight shank is protruding through the "business end" of the countersink and the fluted end of the bit is sticking out the back.
Re-insert the bit through the hole from the inside and carefully chuck the straight shank of the pilot bit into your drill. Set your drill to run in reverse, turn it on and "pull" the bit toward you to drill your countersink.

Drilling perpendicular holes with a
hand drill
If you have a project that requires you to drill perpendicular hole (or series of such holes) with your hand-held drill because workpiece is too big for your drill press (or any other reason), make a guiding jig from a small block of 2" x 4".  Just use your drill press to bore a same-size guiding hole in the block...then use the block to guide the bit in your hand-held drill as you bore your hole(s) in your workpiece.

Hole alignment guide for portable drills
When you need a jig to space a row of holes evenly for shelf supports
or similar projects with a portable drill, try using a length of
pegboard...or a piece of scrap stock with evenly spaced guide holes
that you've drilled in it using your drill press.  

Drilling long/deep holes
When you need to drill a hole in a project that's deeper than your bit
is long, you'll have no choice but to drill from both ends.  But how can
you be certain your holes will meet in the middle? It's easy.

First, clamp a piece of scrap stock to the surface of your drill press
table, under the chuck.  Chuck-up the same bit you plan to use to bore
your deep hole and use it to bore a hole in your scrap piece. Mark the
location of the hole on both ends of your workpiece.  Be sure your bit
and drill press table are perpendicular to one another and drill as
deep as you can from one end.

Drop a marble or ball bearing into the hole in your clamped scrap
piece (the ball should be slightly larger than the diameter of your intended
hole and protrude above the scrap piece a bit. Turn your workpiece over and
allow the first hole you drilled in your workpiece to slip over the top of
your marble or bearing...which will automatically hold your workpiece centered
as you drill from the other end.

Counterweight for conventional drill press tables
If the table on your conventional, single column drill press is difficult to raise and lower, attach a strand of heavy duty picture frame hanging wire to an old lead window weight and drop it into the hollow drill press column.
Insert a window weight pulley (these are usually nothing more than a round wheel with a concave edge) into a slot you've cut into a wooden block, designed to slip snugly into position over the top of your drill press column.
Run the wire over the top of the pulley and down the OUTSIDE of the column. Connect it to the column clamp on the back edge of your table.  Add or subtract weights to achieve the level of assistance you'd like.

Portable electric drill stop
Although metal drill stops are available for most sized bits, sometimes,
the best solution is right before your eyes. Just attach a small piece of
duct tape, or masking tape around your bit, leaving a short pennant or flag
protruding.  Then, merely drill down until the pennant touches your
workpiece surface.

Make your own imitation, antique, cut nails
Start with an ordinary, headed nail of the appropriate size and file the
heads into the shape you desire.  Then, give them the look of age by
soaking them in a jar of water, vinegar and table salt for a few days
before using them.

Being Sure Your Drill Press Set-Up Is "True"
Cut a piece of coat hanger or similar stiff wire to a length of about 8"
to 10".  Bend your wire to a "Z-Shape" and insert one end into your drill
press chuck. Tighten. Adjust your drill press table so the opposite end
of your "Z" barely touches the surface of your table.  Rotate the "Z" to
be sure its opposite end touches the table surface evenly as the drill
chuck is rotated (by hand, of course) through its full 360-degree rotation. 

Straightening Small Diameter Drill Bits That Are Bent
If you've managed to bend a drill bit that's over 1/4" in diameter, there's probably not much hope for straightening it out. However, if you've bent a bit that's smaller than 1/4", you just may be in luck. Start by tightening the bit into the chuck of your portable electric drill. Turn your drill on full-speed and bore a hole in a 2" thick (or so) piece of hard wood such as oak, hard maple, etc. Then, while your bit is still turning, carefully begin applying sideways pressure on the bit, moving it around until it's going straight into the wood.  In most cases, this will remove the bend.
CAUTION: Wear safety glasses during this operation as your bit could snap
off during the process.

Drilling hardened steel
Heat the area you plan to drill with a propane torch until it glows red. Then, gradually withdraw the heat by pulling the torch away. Be sure to concentrate your efforts only on those areas to be drilled or you'll remove the steel's temper, altogether.
CAUTION: Be careful not to catch your workbench or any nearby flammable materials on fire!

Enlarging through holes with an auger bit
If you need to enlarge a hole that's already been drilled...and only have an auger-style bit of the size you need to do the job...here's an important "trick". Find a short length of dowel that's the same diameter as your too-small hole.
Mark the center of the dowel and drill a pilot hole that's slightly smaller in diameter than your auger bit's lead screw.
Screw the lead screw of your auger bit into this hole (DON'T GLUE IT)...drop the dowel into your too-small hole (with bit attached)...turn and drill, using the dowel as your "screw center".

Storing small-sized drill bits & grinding points
Drill a series of shank-sized holes around the circumference of a thread
spool top. Be careful not to drill them too deep. Store the spool
(with bits in-place) in an appropriate sized pill (or similar)

Installing/protecting brass hardware screws
When attaching brass hardware, the soft brass screws can easily be broken or damaged. To avoid this problem, create pilots for your brass screws by first attaching your hardware with comparable sized steel screws. Then, simply remove the steel screws and replace them with the brass ones.

Handy, inexpensive drill bit storage
Simply push your bits into a block of Styrofoam (hard plastic foam.)

Boring holes in plastic sheet without breakage
The best solution is to use special, plastic-drilling bits. If these
specialized bits are not a part of your toolbox, clamp your sheet firmly
between two pieces of 1/2" or thicker scrap wood before drilling. This will
keep your bit on-center and minimize chipping. Remember to drill at a slow
to medium speed to avoid melting the plastic. Remember too that when
drilling plastics, the larger the diameter of the hole, the slower the
speed.


Make-it-yourself tapered candle drill.
Make your own bit for drilling tapered holes by grinding a 7/8"
diameter spade-type bit down to the shape you need. For most candles,
leave the bit diameter as 7/8" at the shank end of the bit and taper
it down to 3/4" at the point end.

Fitting a too-tight piece of stock into a dado or groove.
If you've made a shelf, tenon, etc. that's just a little too large for
the dado or groove that it's designed to mate with, simply cut a kerf
in the edge that's to be inserted. Make it slightly deeper than the
depth of the groove. Then, when you assemble the project, the edge
should compress sufficiently to fit snugly into your groove or dado.

Holding dowels or cylindrical objects for center-drilling on the
Drill Press
Cut small, V-shaped grooves directly across from one another
in two opposing handscrew clamp jaws. Be sure the grooves are
exactly perpendicular (90°) to the jaw sides and that they
cross each jaw all the way, from side-to-side. Then, simply
clamp your dowel or cylindrical object in the handscrew jaw
grooves, rest the jaw sides on your Drill Press table with
the piece to be drilled protruding (90°)upward and drill away

Marking drill bit starting holes
Since a scratch awl has a sharp point, it has a tendency to follow the
grain of the wood when using it to mark hole locations. Instead, try
using a small (1/32" dia.) nail set for this job. You'll find that it
won't follow the grain.

Finishing

Spray bottle stain applicator
Spraying is a great way to apply an even coat of stain on a project.  But, if you don't have a compressor and sprayer system, what are you to do?  Try using a squeeze-handle-type plastic spray bottle like those that come filled with window cleaners, cleaning detergents, etc. They make a great applicator for stains, as well. 

Stiffening a brush for "cutting-in" around project edges
Often, the bristles of a brush are too soft and spread-out too much to create a sharp line of finish.  The next time you face this problem, try wrapping a rubber band around the bristles, about 1-1/2 to 2" from their tips.  This will usually stiffen the bristles by keeping them closer together while you apply your finish.

Obtaining an ebony-like finish
Certain hardwoods (maple, beech, birch and sycamore, as an example) can be made to closely resemble expensive ebony by staining with a black wood dye or translucent black stain.  Be sure to apply the dye or stain in THIN coats so the wood grain shows through, then apply a matte varnish or polyurethane over-coat for protection. 

Concealing scratches in mahogany and similar dark woods
Try using iodine, applied with a fine brush or cotton swab. It may take multiple coats to cover properly.

Kitchen utensil finish is perfect for kids' toys
If you're concerned about the toxicity of the finishes you're putting on your home-crafted children's toys, try using a non-toxic Salad Bowl Finish.

Color-Matching Finish Repairs In Small Areas
Try using felt-tipped markers, mascara brushes or eyebrow pencils.

Work piece holder
To hold your work piece off the bench surface during finishing and drying, try driving 4-penny finishing nails through small, 2" square by 1/4" to 1/2" thick blocks of wood until their heads are flush with the surface.  Then, turn them over on your bench top and use them as "feet" to support your projects, suspended above your bench surface during finishing.

Particle-free smoother for wood finishes
Conventional abrasives and steel wools can, at times leave small abrasive particles or steel fibers in critical wood finishes during the smoothing process.  When smoothing a finish that must be free of these particles, try using ScotchBrite pads, instead.

Preventing paint/stain build-up in the can rim
Save the lids from all empty paint cans. Keeping the entire rim intact, cut a half-moon opening in the lid with a straight edge running across the lid, about 1/4" or so past its centerline. Fold over the extra 1/4" to make a smooth edge that crosses the can opening from side-to-side. When you remove the lid from your paint or stain, replace it with this "wiper lid" and go to work without fear of your can rim filling with paint or stain.

Particle-free wood finish smoother
Try using a small piece of ordinary air-conditioner/furnace filter material.  It's great for smoothing the surfaces of intricate joints and moldings without leaving particles like steel wool.  This material is very inexpensive...and can often be found in different grades of abrasiveness, if you just look.

Removing fumes from the shop
If you're working with lacquers or other finishing materials that are noxious or potentially explosive, it's always a good idea to place a fan outside the door of the shop and open a window or door near the opposite side.  Aim the fan into the shop to create a Positive pressure that will force the fumes out the opposing door or window without the danger of creating sparks which could ignite the fumes.  When doing this, be sure the project you're working on is NOT in the direct line between the "air-in" and "air-out" portals, as this could deposit dust on your project.

Achieving a urethane finish without bubbles
Often, brushed-on polyurethane finishes end up having bubbles in them, no matter how careful you may be. To avoid this, try wiping these finishes on your projects with wadded-up pantyhose or nylon stockings. This works particularly well on curved or contoured surfaces that maybe difficult to reach properly with a brush.

Zero clean-up wood putty mixing
The next time you need to mix-up some wood putty for filling, try doing your mixing in a zip-top kitchen bag. Just dump everything into the bag...zip the top closed and knead your components together. When you're finished, throw the bag (and residue) away and you'll have nothing to clean up.

Keeping stains/finishes off working surfaces
When using small, round artist's or model-making brushes for painting or staining your projects, you can keep their bristles from touching the surface of your project when the brush is laid down by slipping a nut or washer onto the shaft of your brush until it wedges itself into position near the brush end.

Minimizing evaporation and/or "gelling" of stored varnishes and oil finishes
Here are two approaches:
- Float a piece of plastic kitchen wrap on the surface of the material, then replace the container lid.  Be sure it covers the entire surface.
- Transfer your finishes to plastic, squeeze-type bottles and squeeze out most of the air before closing the lid or spout.

A great alternative wood filler
Try using acrylic modeling paste from your local art supply store.  It
can be colored with readily available acrylic artists' colors that dry fast
and hard. It's tough enough to adhere very well, even when built-up and
once it's hardened, it can be shaped and sanded just like wood.

Easy PROPORTIONAL mixing of finishes
Some finishes need to be mixed by PROPORTION and not by weight. If you
don't have a graduated container (and your spouse throws a fit when you
head for the shop with the kitchen measuring cup), try this approach. 
Use a see-through container such as an old pop bottle or drinking glass.
Take a small stick of wood and mark off a series of evenly spaced lines from
one end to the other (about 1/4" or so apart is usually ideal).  Be sure to
SCRIBE these lines since the material you're measuring may obscure any
lines drawn with a pen or pencil.   Place your stick in your see-through
container and start adding material.

Workpiece holders
The next time you need to come up with a way to hold a workpiece that
you've just finished, try the three or four-pronged, plastic "stand-offs"
that are used to keep carryout pizza boxes from collapsing.

Holding small, thin workpieces for sanding
Start by laying a full sheet of 80-grit sandpaper (grit-side-up) on your
bench top.  Then, lay your workpiece on top of this sheet. Now, use a
120-grit (or finer) sheet to sand the opposing surface of your small
workpiece.  The coarser sheet will keep your workpiece from sliding while
you sand it with the finer sheet.

Making Rustic-Looking, Leather Drawer Pulls
Find an old leather belt that you're no longer using. Working with your router and a 1/4" straight bit, cut a horizontal slot in the front of your drawer that's 1/.4" or so longer than your belt is wide. Cut the belt into short lengths (probably about 3" or so. stick the two ends into your slot and attach them to the back side of your drawer front with screws, nails or staples. 

A Great, Super-Smooth "Natural" Finish
Start by sanding your project thoroughly with a succession of finer and finer grits of sandpaper to remove all scratches. Then, flood the surface of your project with a penetrating oil finish such as Watco Danish Oil or Tung Oil.
Next, sand the oil (along with the sanding dust from the wood) into the pores of the wood thoroughly with a wet/dry, 320-grit silicon carbide paper. Wipe and leave to dry overnite...then buff with a soft, dry cloth for an incredible, satin-like finish.

Three Ways To Eliminate Finger Burns When Using Cabinet Scrapers
OUCH! If you've ever used a hand-held cabinet scraper for long, you know what this is about.
1:Cover the top edge of the scraper with a plastic binding slide like those used to hold papers in see-through vinyl report covers.
2:Wear protective rubber finger caps like those used for sorting papers and counting money. Any office supply store should have them.
3:Use rubberized, flexible strip magnets. Attach one to each side of the blade (up about 1/4" to 1/2" from the cutting edge) prior to use. The magnets will act as a "heat sink", absorbing the heat before it ever reaches your fingers.

Filling SMALL cracks and nicks in furniture
As long as your blemish is small, it can often be filled with a children's crayon of the right color. Start by carefully scraping the finish off the inside of the blemish, so the crayon has something to adhere to. Press the crayon into the blemish firmly, using a putty knife or an artist's palette knife. If necessary, you can even melt the crayon into the blemish with a match.
With all the crayon colors available today, you should have no difficulty finding one that matches. If not, you can always mix crayon colors together in a heated spoon to achieve the correct color before drilling it into the mixture.

Bending laminates without breakage
If you need to bend a laminate material to a fairly tight
radius, try using a high-temperature heat gun like those
designed for paint removal. Heat the laminate material very
carefully, starting with the gun a fair distance away from
its surface...and moving slowly closer and closer...as you
"coax" the laminate around your bend. Don't get too close or
you'll cause blistering, burning, or discoloration.

Storing paint brushes properly
Before storing, clean brushes thoroughly with the appropriate
solvent. Then, spin the handle back-and-forth between your hands
(inside a trash can, box or similar receptacle to contain potential
splattering) to remove as much moisture as possible. Wrap the
bristles carefully in newspaper to protect them.

Paintbrushes from clotheslines?
Yep! Just cut ordinary cotton clothesline into short lengths and use
them for staining and similar jobs. Then, just throw them away when
you're done!

Covering up poor-fitting miter joints
Everybody makes mistakes. It's often been said that the best craftsman
is the one who is most skilled at covering his mistakes. The next time
you cut a poor-fitting miter joint, try "burnishing" the edges of the
joint with a metal rod or screwdriver...gently "pushing" and shoving
the wood fibers until they join together and fill the gap.

Flattening the shine of over-glossy paints
Add a small amount of talcum powder to the paint.
Conduct some tests on scrap wood to determine the ideal
amount for your application.

How to avoid blotchy finishes
There are two primary causes of blotchy finishes. The first is skipping
from coarse directly to fine grit sanding, without an intermediate step.
This practice leaves deep cuts in the wood surface that absorb stains
and finishes unevenly.
The second is using abrasive materials that have become dull and create
a build-up of heat when sanding. This is especially true of power sanding
operations, as you might expect. This heat causes the lignin in the
wood's cell walls to flow, creating burnt or burnished areas that absorb
finishes unevenly. Aluminum oxide abrasives are notorious for this. Try
switching to garnet abrasives which are self-sharpening, and that means
more efficient cutting with less heat build-up.

Making your own dark pine stain
Separate a "plug" of (dark-colored) chewing tobacco and soak it
overnight in a pint of common household ammonia. Strain it through
a stocking (or pantyhose) to remove any particles before applying
it to your project. Multiple coats may be required to attain the
color you want. Be sure to allow a minimum of 3 hours' drying
time between coats. Cover with shellac, varnish or polyurethane.

Record that finish!
If possible, ALWAYS make a small label, describing the
materials (stains, topcoats, etc.) used to finish a project and
attach it in an inconspicuous place on every job. If the
project's small and a location can't be found for the label,
keep a "log" of the finishes for all your projects. That way,
if you ever have to repair a scratch or other blemish, you'll
know what you used originally and should be able to match
everything up nicely.

Removing "runs" from finishes.
It happens every time. Just when you think you've completed a
project, you look at it and find a big, ugly run in your finish.
What to do? First, allow the finish to dry completely before
trying to do anything. Then, use a single-edged razor blade to
scrape the run off, flush with the surrounding surface. Re-finish
and rub out the area with pumice stone and linseed oil.

Hand Tools

Make a rasp from old saw blades
A fast-cutting wood rasp can be easily made from a series of old hacksaw blades. Just alternate the direction of the teeth and bolt them together through their attachment holes. Use two to four blades to make a really narrow rasp for those tiny jobs....or an inch-high stack (or even more) when you need a wide rasp for removing a lot of stock in a hurry.  For a handle, try wrapping one end with duct tape.

A "sticky wicket" mallet for chiseling
An old, discarded croquet mallet makes an excellent wooden-faced tool for working with chisels without damaging their handles.  Just cut off the handle to about 12" to 18" long and go to work.

Small, make-it-yourself nail-puller
Ordinary hammer claws are often just too big and cumbersome for removing small brads, tacks or finishing nails. But you can make a claw that's perfect for the job by using a small, triangular metal file to create a small "claw" in one of the regular claws on your full-sized hammer.  This will give you "a claw within a claw" that you can use the next time you have to pull a small brad, nail or carpet tack.

Protecting the tips of chisels
Nicked chisel edges are worthless.  To protect the sharpened tips of your bench chisels, try cutting small slits in old, discarded tennis balls, racquet balls or handballs.  Then, just insert the tips of your chisels into them to prevent those troublesome nicks.

Garden hose tool holders
Short pieces of an old garden hose make ideal "sheaths" for small chisels, screwdrivers and other round or flat tools. Just use two screws to fasten the bottoms of your hose pieces to a board that's attached to the wall with the open (top) ends toward the ceiling.  Drop the tip of your tools into the open ends of the hoses.

Protecting your palms when carving or screwdriving
To avoid blisters when you have a lot of carving or screw driving to do, try wearing a pair of fingerless bicycling or golfing gloves. You'll still have plenty of "feel" for the job, but without the painful blisters.

Fitting screws into tight spots
If you're having difficulty inserting a screw into a tight spot, cut a 2" long small piece of hose with an inside diameter just slightly smaller than the outside diameter of your screw head. Slip the hose over the tip of your screwdriver and use it to hold your screw in position as you insert it.

Proper use of a hand plane
When using a hand plane, always exert most of the downward pressure on the FRONT of your plane as you begin the cut -- evenly on the FRONT & BACK of the plane while both ends of the plane are resting solidly on your wood in the middle of your cut -- and transferring most of the pressure to the BACK of the plane as it exits your cut.

Wooden "depth-stop for your backsaw
To control the depth of a cut you'll be making with a backsaw, make two 1/2" wide by 1/2" thick wooden strips that are about 2" longer than your saw blade.  Clamp the two strips together and drill holes through both strips, spaced about 1/8" farther apart than your saw blade is long.  Place one strip on each side of your saw and run a bolt through the holes.  Use wing nuts to clamp the strips tightly around your saw blade at the desired depth-of-cut.

Door catch saw holders
Magnetic door catches make excellent holders for lightweight saws and similar tools. Just screw the catches to a wooden bar that's attached to the wall or suspended from the ceiling...then touch the blades of your small saws to them and release.

Truing a metal framing square
If your large metal framing square is out of whack, don't throw it away - FIX IT.  Here's how.  Lay the square on a flat surface. To adjust the two blades INWARD to each other (REDUCING the angle between the two blades), position a steel center punch on the diagonal line where the two pieces of the square join together -- near the OUTSIDE of the corner -- and strike with a hammer.  To adjust the blades OUTWARD to each other (INCREASING the angle between the two blades), position your center punch near the INSIDE of the corner on your diagonal line and strike with a hammer. 

How to buy a square that's square
Few things are more useless than an un-square square. That's why it's so important to be sure any square you're buying is square and true. To do this, take a notebook-sized writing tablet and a SHARP pencil to the store with you when you go to buy your square.

When you find one you like, check it out as follows:

1: Lay the handle (or short edge) of your square flush against one side of your writing tablet, with the blade extending across the width of the tablet, approximately in the middle, top-to-bottom. Draw a fine line across the tablet, guiding your pencil point along the top edge of the square's blade.

2: Now, flip the handle of your square over and align the same top edge of the blade with the point on the far side of the tablet where your original line met the edge of the sheet. Draw a line from that point, back across the sheet to the "handle" side. If the square is square, the two lines will be exactly parallel. If they're not, keep trying till you find a square where these two lines ARE parallel.

Preventing hammer head slippage
A smoothly-worn hammer head can be an accident looking for a place (and
time) to happen. To avoid slippage when driving nails, it's a god idea to
occasionally scuff up your hammer's head with coarse emery cloth, a file or
an abrasive wheel.

Protective sheaths for chisel edges
Use the cut-off the fingers from worn-out leather gloves. Hold
them in place with a short piece of twine, a twist-tie or a
rubber band.

The importance of file cleaning
In order for a file to work properly, it must be clean. Left
unattended, a build-up of metal or wood will eventually fill in
the gaps between the cutting edges of the file, rendering it
ineffective. Use a "file card" (a thin, flat, cigarette-pack-sized
wire brush with stiff, 1/4" long bristles) to keep your files
clean. If you can't find a file card at your home center, you
can often accomplish the job by pressing duct tape or masking
tape firmly onto the files' surfaces. Then, simply peel the tape
off, removing the debris with it.

Home-made, fast-cutting rasp.
Fasten a series of hacksaw blades together with a course or two of
duct tape wrapped tightly around each end. Make it any width you
like by adding or subtracting blades. If you want your rasp to cut
on both the push and the pull stroke, alternate the tooth direction
as you tape the blades together.

Using a hand plane properly.
When using a hand plane, always begin your cut by applying more
downward pressure on the FRONT handle of the plane than on the
back handle. As you move along your board, shift your pressure
so it's pretty much even, front-to-back. As you approach the end
of your cut, shift your pressure again so most of it is on the
back handle of the plane.

Protective hammer tip
If you have need for a soft-faced rawhide, rubber or wooden mallet for
driving project components together or apart without damaging surfaces,
try slipping an ordinary rubber crutch tip over the head of your hammer.

Jointing & Joinery

Jointing The Edges Of Small Parts
Some parts are just too small to joint safely on machinery.  In these cases, try grasping the handle of a Jack, Jointer or Smoothing plane in the jaws of your bench vise (in an inverted position). Then, simply grasp your small part and run it over your hand plane's blade.

Notched board makes great "in-a-pinch" tenoning jig
To cut a tenon on the end of a workpiece without a tenoning jig, try this trick.  Square all four edges of a 2" x 6" or a 4" x 4" that's about 18" long.  Cut a notch in one (wide) face of your board that's exactly the width of the workpiece that will contain your tenon and about one-third of this workpiece's thickness.  When you cut your notch, be sure all three edges are exactly 90-degrees to the bottom edge of your jig board. Rest the bottom edge of your jig on your saw table with its back (un-notched) edge against your rip fence.  Slip one face of your workpiece into the notch in the jig, adjust your blade height and fence to make the proper cut, clamp your stock into position in the jig (well above the cutting line of your saw, of course) and make your cut by guiding your jig with the workpiece clamped into the notch through your saw's blade. 

Fitting shelves tightly into dadoes
If you own a thickness planer, here's a simple but important tip for making tight-fitting shelf-to-cabinet fits. ALWAYS cut the dado or groove that your shelf is to fit into BEFORE you plane your lumber to thickness. By doing this, you can adjust your shelf thickness slightly to form a snug fit in the groove or dado.

Using A Router To Joint The Edges Of Long Boards
If you're joining a series of long boards together that may be too cumbersome to handle on a short-bet jointer, try using your hand-held router and a 1/4" straight bit.  Start by laying all of your boards face down on your bench top or the floor in their proper orientation. Leaving about 3/16" between each pair of boards, screw a wooden cleat across the back side of all boards, connecting them together at each end.
Turn your boards back over so they're face up and clamp a straightedge to them and adjust it so that when your router base rides against it, your 1/4" bit lines up with the first of your 3/16" wide spaces.
  Turn on your router and make your cut, guiding your router base against the straightedge, cutting a clean, straight edge on two opposing boards simultaneously.
Reposition your straightedge and repeat this process at the spaces between each pair of boards.
Since each pair of mating boards is jointed at the same time, they'll fit together perfectly every time...even if your straightedge isn't perfectly straight.


"Shrinking" Dowels or Biscuits That Fit Too Tightly
The next time you're having trouble getting a biscuit or dowel to slip into its intended pocket or hole, don't reach for the sandpaper. Although this method works great if you only have one or two biscuits or dowels, it can be very time-consuming when you have a lot of them.  When you find yourself in this situation, just "cook" your biscuits or dowels in the microwave for a few minutes.  Chances are, they have enough residual moisture in them that the heat will shrink them enough that they'll slip right into place with little or no trouble. 


Eliminating Jointer/Planer Tear-Out

If you're experiencing tear-outs when jointing or planing crossgrained woods, here's a trick worth remembering. Before making your pass over the knives, use a cloth or sponge to apply a light coat of water, raising the wood grain slightly. Let your water soak in for a minute or two, then make a light 1/32" or less pass across the machine.  If you're still getting some tear-out, repeat the process and allow the water to soak in for a little longer before trying again.  

Layout & Measuring

A time-saving tool-maker's trick
Tool & die makers use steel "one-two-three" blocks to save time on layouts and set-ups. These blocks are exactly 1" thick, 2" wide and 3" long.  Woodworkers can also benefit from such blocks.  Just make them out of hardwood such as maple or cherry and keep them nearby for fast tool set-ups (such as setting rip fences) and layout jobs (like marking off even distances for dowel holes, etc.

Marking Large Diameter Curves Or Arcs
Sometimes, it can be difficult to mark a large diameter curve or arc near the long edge a narrow board -- since there's no place (on the same board) where you can center a string or compass.  In those cases, an ordinary sash chain (or other small-linked chain) can be used.  Here's how: Drive a nail or brad into the face of your stock at either end of your desired curve. Slip a chain link over the brads on either end and stand your board on edge so gravity will cause your chain to droop.  Adjust your chain by changing the link on either end, allowing your arc to get larger or smaller.  Once your desired arc is attained, mark a dot on your stock at each link or two.  Remove the chain and your brads, then  connect the dots.

Transferring patterns for spindle turnings, legs, etc.
Attach a sheet of white paper (large enough for the pattern) temporarily to the wall.  Set the spindle you wish to duplicate vertically in front of the paper and very close to it.  Position a bright lamp in line with the spindle so it casts a sharp-edged shadow onto the paper.  Adjust the distance between the lamp and the shadow to achieve the sharpest shadow.  Then, simply trace along the shadow with a pencil to transfer the pattern.

Large capacity caliper for big jobs
Use two "c-clamps" to clamp the legs of two 16" x 24" framing squares together around/across the object to be measured. Following this procedure, you can even use the scales to measure the distance directly.

Making layout marks visible on dark woods
Start by SCRIBING your layout lines instead of marking them with a pencil. Then, dust the scribed lines with white (or colored) chalk to make them more visible.

Improved protection and viewing of project plans
To keep the plans for a project that you're working on in good condition, hang an inexpensive, roll-up window shade from the shop ceiling.  Tape your plans to the shade so you can roll them down for a look when necessary...then back up, out of the way when you're finished.  If your shade is of the translucent variety (not sun-blocking or room-darkening) the light shining through could make your plans easier to read, too.

Transferring same size patterns to your workpieces
Make a full-sized photo copy of your pattern at a local print shop (for
large projects, you may have to tape several sheets together). Lay the
pattern on top of your workpiece, face side down and apply heat with an
ordinary hand-held iron.  The heat from the iron will transfer the
toner from the copies to your workpiece quite nicely.

Removing Stuck Screw Plugs & Buttons
The next time you have difficulty removing a stuck screw-hole plug, drill a
1/8" diameter hole through the center of the plug/button, being careful not
drill into the wood below the plug. File a flat on the tip of a #8 wood screw.
Screw the screw into your pilot hole. When the flattened screw tip hits the
wood below, it should push your plus squarely out of its hole.

Ensuring the precision of tape measures and rules
Often, there are major inconsistencies between the various rulers and
tape measures in your shop. To check for this, lay the graduated edge
of one ruler or tape against another and you will immediately see the
difference. To avoid the serious problems this could cause when working
on projects where dimensions are critical, always use the same rule or
tape measure for every measurement on a given project.

Checking the accuracy of a square.
Lay the head of your square against a straight, jointed edge of a
board. Using an artist's utility (X-Acto-type) knife, scribe a line
along the blade of your square, onto the board. Flip the head of your
square over and align THE SAME BLADE EDGE with the point where your previously scribed line meets the edge of the board. If your square is truly square, these two lines will be exactly parallel. If they're not, the distance between the two lines represents DOUBLE the amount of error in the blade's accuracy.

Handy tape measure "notebook".
How many times have you measured something only to wish that you had a
piece of paper to write that measurement on until you got back to the
shop? Try double-stick taping a small (1-1/2" x 2" pad of Post-It notes
to the side of your tape measure!

Inexpensive, durable project templates
When you need to make tracing templates for projects
you plan to build again at some time in the future,
make them out of aluminum offset printing plates.
You can usually get them for free from local printers,
they roll up easily for storage and they'll last a lifetime

Simple marking gauge modification improves line accuracy.
The round scribe tips on most marking gauges usually create rough,
splintered-out lines on wood that are difficult to follow. To solve
this problem, use a fine file to create a sharp, knife-like edge on
the tips. Just file a flat on a line that's parallel with the guiding
face of your gauge.

Seeing pencil lines on dark wood surfaces
Draw your pencil line first. Then, trace over it with a piece of
blackboard chalk. The chalk will not adhere to the pencil line,
leaving you with an easy-to-see black line between two light-colored
chalk areas. An alternative approach is to use a white pencil,
available at art supply stores.

Lumber Tips

Preventing checking on green turning blanks
Try storing them in a freezer until you're ready to use them.  If they're
going to be there for a long time, put them inside plastic bags or wrap
them in plastic wrap or aluminum foil prior to freezing.

Beautiful Accent Plugs From Scrap Wood
Save your small scraps of exotic and colorful hardwoods like Padauk, Ebony,Rosewood, Wenge, Bocote, Purpleheart, etc. Use your plug cutter to slice decorative plugs out of these scraps for screw holes and accents on those "special" projects.

Preventing tear-out when jointing highly figured woods
Make a long, wooden wedge that's about 4" to 6" wide -- as long as
your jointer's fence -- and tapers from about 2" or so thick on one
end to about 1/2" or so on the other.
Attach this wedge to your fence to force your stock to pass across the
blade at a slightly "skewed" angle, producing a much cleaner cut.

Keeping green wood from drying-out and "checking"
If possible, always store pieces of green wood in a sealed
plastic garbage bag with a few handfuls of damp sawdust.

Miscellaneous Tips

Making wood fillers stick
Filling accidental "dings" in wood surfaces can be tricky.  More often than not, the filler you use to make the repair will come loose, ruining your project.  To prevent this, drill a couple of shallow, angled holes into the surface of your "ding" before using the filler. These should be small diameter holes and your filler should be thinned sufficiently so it will flow into them, giving you a great "grip" that won't pull out.


Magnetic tool/accessory holder
Whether you're working with a Shopsmith MARK V or other brand of tool, it's always handy to have your set-up tools (such as chuck keys, Allen wrenches, etc.) nearby for changing bits, blades and similar set-ups.  One way to do this is to attach a strong magnet to the machine, near the area where these tools will be used. If your tool is made of aluminum or other non-magnetic materials, attach the magnet with double-stick tape.  Old loudspeaker magnets are great for this, as are some of the new "rare Earth" magnets that are available at Radio Shack stores. 

Preventing File Tooth Clogging
If you're filing soft metals (such as aluminum) and resinous woods (such as pine), you may find that the teeth of your file are clogging-up frequently.  To avoid this, rub your file first with a piece or ordinary blackboard chalk.

Another table saw glide aid
Here's another great way to keep work pieces gliding smoothly across table saws and other machine surfaces. Purchase a set of large diameter, aluminum salt/pepper shakers, like the ones "Mom" used near the stove.  Fill them with cornstarch and place them near your machines.  When a workpiece seems to be dragging, give the table surface a quick sprinkle and watch how easily your stock glides

Keeping Your MARK V Allen Wrench Handy
As all Shopsmith MARK V owners know, most tool changeovers and adjustments can be made with a single tool...your 5/32" Allen Wrench. To be sure it's handy when you need it most, wrap a strip of flexible magnetic tape around the front lower way tube of your MARK V.  This will make the perfect "holster" for your Allen Wrench !

Easier apron strings
Tying the strings of a shop apron behind your back can be a tricky proposition.  Instead, cut off your apron strings and replace them with Velcro strips.  They're much easier to fasten than strings.

Cutting foam rubber
Cutting foam rubber can be a tricky proposition.  Here's a neat trick.  Soak the foam rubber piece in water, wring it out a bit and slip it into the freezer.  Once it's hardened completely, remove it from the freezer and cut it quickly with a bandsaw, etc. before it thaws out.

Keeping a nut from working loose
The next time you have trouble with a nut (5/16" or larger) working its way loose from a bolt, try this trick.Tighten the nut on your bolt. Using a hacksaw, cut two perpendicular slots into the end of your protruding bolt. Carefully drive a straight-slot screwdriver tip into each slot to "mushroom" the end of your bolt, locking the nut into position.

Mounting glass in picture frames
Driving retaining brads into the backs of picture frames without breaking the glass can be tricky.  Special, squeeze-type brad drivers are available to do this job...but what if you don't have one of these handy tools? 
Try using a pair of channel-lock-type, slip-joint pliers to do the job.  Their jaws open wide enough to tackle most frames.  Be sure to put a small piece of cardboard or hardboard under the jaw that rests against the outside of your frame while squeezing to avoid marring your frame surface.

A cure for "dancing" machinery
If you have stationary shop machines that vibrate and seem to "dance" around the shop floor when they're in-use, try gluing their legs to your shop floor with paneling or construction adhesive. If you later decide to move the machine, you can easily remove the glue with a chisel.

Removing small scratches from glass surfaces
Just dampen a piece of felt with jeweler's rough and rub the surface lightly until the scratch is gone.

Leaving a crisp, clear brand on your projects
If you use a branding iron to leave your mark on projects, you already know that you often don't get the best brand with the first stroke. If not, it's almost impossible to re-align perfectly over your first effort.
Solve this problem by making a 3/8" thick, two-leg piece with a 90-degree corner and legs about 4" to 5" long. Clamp your wood angle to your project's surface in the desired location. Then, just snug your hot iron into the corner to make your brand.  If you miss the first time, re-alignment won't be a problem.

Holding small dowels in a vise
To grip small diameter dowels tightly with a vise...without marring them...try placing two spring-loaded wooden clothes pins over the dowel, spaced slightly closer together than your vise jaws are wide.  Them insert the dowel (with clothes pins attached) into the jaws of the vise and tighten.

Temporary shims for fitting project components
Try using drill bits.  Since they come in 1/64" increments, you should have no trouble finding EXACTLY the dimension you need for the job at hand.

Checking for mill marks on workpiece edges and surfaces
Tell-tale mill marks can ruin the appearance of a project if you don't catch them and sand them smooth prior to finishing. To check for such marks, hold a bright light (such as a photographer's spotlight or automotive "trouble light" at a low angle, casting a beam of light across the edge or surface of your work piece.  If mill marks exist, the light will create visible shadows that you'll easily see.

Preventing glass "rattle" in picture frames & glass cabinet doors
Sometimes, no mater hard you try, you just can't keep panes of glass from rattling in picture frames and glass cabinet doors. Some of this is caused by the expansion & contraction of wood from season-to-season.  A great way to prevent this is to put small, 1/16 to 1/8" dabs of plumber's putty (stainless putty) between the glass and the inside front of the frame or door. Keep your dabs as small and thin as possible so they're not visible.

Easy shop vac clean-up
Many dust collectors use throwaway plastic bags to collect and dispose of chips and dust. However, most shop vacuums have metal drums that must be dumped into something when full...usually making a mess.  However, if you line your shop vac drum with a heavy gauge plastic bag prior to use, when the drum's full, you can just remove the bag and dispose of it without making a mess !

Smoothing the sharp edges of glass
Use a piece of fine emery paper, wrapped around a sanding block.  Before sanding, coat the paper with WD-40, then sand back-and-forth until your edge is smooth.

Styrofoam Holder For Tools
A piece of styrofoam makes a great holder for all types of tools...most notably, screwdrivers, drill bits, chisels and punches.
Just attach a block of this great stuff to your workbench or a piece of wall-mounted pegboard and stick your tools into it. 

Extending The Life Of Shop Vacuum Filters
The filters in many types of shop vacuums can be expensive. And if you use yours as an in-shop dust collector, they can load-up quickly with find dust and chips...reducing the flow and power of your vacuum substantially.
You can solve this problem (and save on filter replacement costs) by wrapping your filter canister with a pair of discarded nylon stockings or pantyhose. This will prevent a lot of the dust and chips from clogging the filter. Just remember to remove the wrapping occasionally and shake or blow it out before replacing it over your filter.

Repairing Splintered, Veneer Or Plywood Surfaces
Start by peeling a small piece of matching veneer of a scrap piece of matching stock.  Lay the scrap piece over the splintered area and make a triangular shaped cut through BOTH pieces of veneer at the same time. (TIP: a piece of double-stick will help you hold everything together during your cut).
Remove the splintered area and glue the replacement triangle into position.

Avoid Marring Work piece Surfaces
Even in the most well-maintained shops, rough workbench surfaces (and metal filings or shavings) can often create dents, scratches and other blemishes on the underside of work pieces as they're being worked. To avoid this, it's always a good idea to cover your bench surface with sheets of newspaper or brown kraft or butcher's wrapping paper before getting started.  You might even look for an antique paper dispenser/cutter at a flea market and mount it on the side of your benc